Indo, Let's Go

Viewing wild endangered orangutan in one of their last remaining habitats drew us in. The crocodiles kept us up at night. We boarded our vessel Kumai, named after the town she moors in, 3 minutes in we saw the first crocodile on the Sekonyer River. It was a juvenile and the last crocodile we would see. Thank goodness, we were kept awake at night because our juvenile Jack, although the most athletic 7 year old you can meet, seems to trip and fall everywhere, always. Spoiler alert, he did not fall into the river and he survived the trip.

Arriving in Borneo you spend a night in Pangkalan Bun. It was our first experience in Indonesia outside of Bali. The rest of the country is Muslim and you noticed the cultural differences immediately. The sounds of Salah (prayer time) is heard 5 times a day. The 4am wakeup Salah was a new experience for us all. Women tend to wear traditional outfits, covered, the type us westerners envision. Beyond the religious difference Pangkalan Bun stood in stark contrast to Canggu, Bali (where we live). Tourist were absent in this town, except the 4 Shuck’s who stood out like a sore thumb. Commerce consisted of a wet market and well, that was it (from what we saw). Surf shops – nope. Bars – hard no. We were ready for the rainforest ASAP.

We arrived in the port town of Kumai to board our ship. She was a beauty. The upper deck was the living area with a nice dinning room in the center. The bow was a sitting and sunbathing area, the stern the same. Downstairs was the galley and all of the quarters (talkin’ boat guy here). The kids shared an AC room with twin beds while Mom and Dad had the luxury suite. Included in our journey was a Captain, First Mate, Chef, Chef’s Assistant and English speaking guide. Our guide, Jeky, was a gem of a man.

The journey takes place up the Sekonyer River and into Tanjung Puting National Park. Within the rainforest of Tanjung Puting the superstars are the Orangutang (only found in Borneo and Sumatra) and the Proboscis monkey (endemic to Bornero). They share the rainforest with their cousins the gibbons, the macaques, and a small amount of other monkeys. No shortage of mosquitoes and spiders.

Our leisurely cruise took us first to Tanjung Harapan, a rehabilitation center for Orangutans. The magic begun. We entered an hour before feeding time and found ourselves surrounded by the beautiful female and young orangutans. Watching this animal climb, observe, parent was one of the more stunning displays of nature we’ve ever seen.

Then came the male. Slowly, he climbed a tree and observed his surroundings. Then, with bravodo he descended the trees, all we could see was bushes brustle until he came out. Purposefully, he walked across the shrub in front of us and walked directly past the crowd awaiting him. We were frightened, it looked as if he could rip us limb from limb. It was no bother to him, he ascended the trees again, waiting for the appropriate time to eat.

Returning to Kumai our chef had prepared delicious juices and snacks. Then we sat. The trip consisted of a lot of time to do nothing. We meandered the river and relaxed. The sounds of the rainforest where an adventure themselves. Buzzing of bugs, howls of proboscis monkeys, deep call of male orangutan, and the ever present tok tok tok of local villagers boating up and down the river. We plowed through books and enjoyed the serenity.

A meals were included in the trip. We feasted like kings! Traditional Indonesian food was served 3 times a day. Nasi goreng, mie goreng, fruit, tempe, sambals galor, pancakes with honey, vegetables in coconut milk of my!

The rain came the next day. No refunds in the jungle strap up and go forward! Kumai was a large vessel and couldn’t make the voyage up the side river to Camp Leaky. Onto a small local boat we went. What a journey hovering inches above the river, pouring rain. The thought of those damn crocodiles came to the forefront.

The orangutan camp in the heavy rain was entertaining. It added to the mystic of the trip. Heavy rain didn’t slow down the orangutan and gibbons! It didn’t slow Jack down from enjoying the rain as well.

The celebration began back on the boat. Happy Birthday to Jack! Who turns 7 on a boat in Borneo? We brought presents onto the boat to celebrate and the chef made a delicious cake for him. We sang away, opened presents and stuffed our face with cake. What a special birthday for our special little man.

That night moored upon the river shores a special treat unfolded. 180 degrees of proboscis monkeys provided our evening entertainment. There were 3-4 groups, each anchored by their dominate male, finishing dinner and settling into their branchy beds for the evening. Viewing these communities in their natural habitat, unspoiled, was a highlight of the trip.

Lastly, we enjoyed a stroll through the small riverside village of Desa Sungai Sekonyer. Our destination was a canoe ride from a local fisherman but the journey lies in the trek. Barefoot we walked down mud paths through the village. The school children chased Amanda down begging her to stop and talk. Who is the 5’11 lady walking through our village! The kids love a selfie opportunity, lord they were cute. Arriving at our canoes we glided through a quiet stretch of river covered by jungle. We joked that we’ll never be able to ride the Jungle Cruise at Disneyland again! It was a peaceful and fitting end to our journey.

Borneo may have been our best family adventure ever. The connection with nature, sight of beautiful animals endemic to the region, warmth of the crew and local villagers, and relaxation. Slowing the heart rate and doing nothing is a soothing mental experience. One all four of us loved. The opening verse of our Borneo theme song sums it up;

Lord, I thank you for sunshine
Thank you for rain
Thank you for joy
Thank you for pain
It’s a beautiful day-ay-ay-ay-ay
It’s a beautiful day-ay