Indo, Let's Go

Vietnam.  

This was the big one.  Fall break was the chance for our first big  vacation away from Bali.  We chose Vietnam.  There was tremendous excitement.  The natural beauty of the seaside formations, the countryside jungle, the colors of the city, cuisine, then of course; the people.  We planned and prepped.  Ten days in Vietnam, just under the size of California, takes some logistical planning.   We were ready.

We carried apprehensions.  Communism, not our jam.  Would Americans be welcome?  What is the aftermath of the Vietnam War (Labeled American War in Vietnam)?  We’ll see.  Bags packed, Creedence Clearwater Revival soundtrack downloaded, let’s go to Vietnam!

10 days out….

We need visas to get into Vietnam?  Minor panic settles in.  Ok, everything is planned to a T; we can figure this out.  A bit of online research, phone a few friends, nailed it.  Applications submitted to the Vietnamese Government Visa Website with plenty of time to spare.  3 days to process it, breathing room.  48 hours prior to departure and we are still in process.    Minor panic turn to sturdy heart palpitations.  Like any good dad I find the over priced visa expeditor company and pay the panic fee.  Phew, visas issues, crisis averted, $400, who cares, we’re going to ‘Nam!

Official paperwork printed we arrive at the airport to check-in. Way early, drink at the lounge, shop at duty free, what a breeze.  Until, “Mr. Shuck; your visas have been denied.”   Five alarm panic has arrived.  Yours truly typed in the AMERICAN way of putting dates (month/day/year) instead of the rest of the world way (day/month/year) in 2 of the 20 segments required.  Dad fail.  Vietnam Immigration denied.  We have until 4:30pm to solve the problem when boarding closes, it’s 4:12pm.  I’m presented a Vietnamese website for emergency visas, we execute the paperwork; nervously; and click submit.  $500 more dollars and we wait.  The visas arrive, we clear the immigration check, off to Vietnam!  PSA; save the $1,000, read the rules and fill your paperwork out on time.

We arrived in Hanoi, paid more money for visas, cleared customs, hopped in a car, made it to a rather dodgy hotel (it was midnight and we left at 8am the next morning).  We made it; that was stressful, let’s close our eyes and start this magical vacation.

Coffee, buffet, more coffee, into the tourist van we go.  Our trip officially commenced on a boat in Halong Bay.  After two hours of driving and a stop at a local oyster farm, aka tourist trap, because we were “ahead of schedule,” we arrived in Halong Bay.  The famed UNESCO World Heritage site was mesmerizing upon arrival.  The limestone formations protruding from the bay translate to “descending dragon” and the description was bang on.  We had adjoining family rooms and we were ready to set sail for our 24 hour adventure in Halong Bay.

It was lovely, kinda cheesy as well.  We sat for lunch and a safety speech upon arrival.  The lunch was 87 courses.  You know, the kind where one good course probably would have done better than the 87 sub par to moderate course at minimal size.  Eh, it’s the ambiance, we got the schtick.  It was yummy.  Aboard our boat were 10 cabins, a rooftop pool and bar area, and views of the majestic bay as far as the eye can see.  We made friends with a traveling group of Aussies, fleeced happy hour, swam and kayaked through the bay.  Jack claims the Halong Bay Kayak was the highlight of his Vietnam trip, especially when he and Daddy went fast.   Shortly after our kayak the boat crew realized there was a mistake.  They had placed us on a 3 day 2 night boat and we were supposed to be on the 2 day 1 night boat.  Whoops.  It was annoying because the one activity the kids wanted to do was squid fishing.  That was 86’d because we had to transfer boats.  We threw a stink but it didn’t matter, off this boat onto the next.  Boat 2 was actually way nicer.  Honestly, it was stuffy though.  Surprise surprise, a friendly Vietnamese employee stepped in and scrambled to get the kids fishing poles.  They didn’t catch any squid but Halong Bay had been salvaged in Jack and Lyla’s eyes.  Kids to bed, a few gratis glasses of wine for mom and dad, bedtime. 

We awoke early for a cave hike.  Near half a mile through Trung Trang Grotto was pleasant.  Pleasant in the stalagmites, bats and ancient formations are beautiful but I’m ready to exit this stuffy cave underground kinda way.  We cruised the bay, and set sail for port.  Halong Bay was a natural beauty.  She shined at sunset where we watched the sun slide beneath the dragon’s back over the bay.  The boat snafu was annoying, but the hospitality of the Vietnamese overcame any irritation.  What a kick-start to the trip.

Disembark the vessel, off to Pu Luong.

Our driver collects us.  “How long to Pu Luong?” I ask.  “7 hours.”  Ok, time out, Google Translate time.  After a few stops and starts we realized he is trying to save three pennies by avoiding tolls.  No dude, we’ll pay the tools, let’s hit it.  100m later we noticed homeboy couldn’t drive.  He twitched, checked Facebook, swerved, braked for no reason, struggle to execute a simple pass maneuver.  Amanda and I’s mind, facial expressions, concerned looks, and fear were in sync.  Breathe, we can make it. 

This was test #1 for the children.  We elected to stay WAY OUT into the hills of Vietnam to experience the desolate countryside of Pu Luong Valley.  The entire cringing ride they never complained. 

Upon arrival we were met by Dzuy, our hotel manager.  Hotel is an inappropriate word.  It was a bamboo set of treehouse / structures built upon a stunning valley.  Nature rarely presents herself so beautifully.  Mid perch on a Vally our view wandered over green and golden rice terraces.  Steep mountains that lay like the dragons of Halong Bay.  Jungle, sprinkled with Palm and Acacia trees and a vast blue sky.  We felt our heart rates drop by the second.  The staff served a family style dinner with chicken skewers, veggies, rice, and…….margaritas.  We settled into our bamboo home awaiting 3 days of beauty and peace.  Expectations were met.

“3km’s to the market,” Dzuy states.  “It only happens Tuesdays and Saturdays.  Follow the road and take a right, then go down where the 25 degree sign is, follow the people from there.”  Ok Dzuy, not exactly Google Maps but let’s do it.  The walk was hard for 3 reasons.  One, it was hard.  Like, hot, down a big hill, did I say hot?  Two, it was so beautiful you couldn’t put one foot in front of the other in a straight line without stumbling over the beauty.  Harvested golden rice fields.  Palm trees, shooting mountains, colorful locals yelling halo as they passed on scooters.  It was too much to take in.  Three, Dzuy’s since of 3km’s was a little shy.  Eh, guess he was rounding for simplicities stake. 

4-5kms later we arrive at the local market, in a local village, in the remote mountains of Vietnam.  What did you picture when you read that sentence?  That is what we experienced.  First, you notice the hustle and urgency of the people.  This is how they live, eat, and perform commerce.  Then, we noticed our welcome mat.  A giant severed cow’s head starting at us. Our first section was the wet market. Finding stands with disemboweled pig legs setting next to the pork meat was a first. Merchants attempting to smash snakes that had entered the small pan where is catfish await their final hour, also a first. The live larva being sold as a delicatessen was my worst fear. The family was committed to watching me eat something weird, like the cooking shows. Ugh, the moment of truth! Thankfully, no judgement was given when I refused to eat the squiggly little fella. Adjacent to the football field size butcher’s market was the fruit and vegetable market. What a contrast. Bright fruits and vegetables stretched across the stands. Vietnamese women ran commerce from their standard position. Squatting like a catcher they made change, organized the stand and gossiped with their fellow merchants. The dexterity of these women!

We were a long way from our local Pavillions on PCH in Seal Beach. It’s fun seeing how other cultures live beyond tourist hotspots. This was day to day life in Pu Luong, Vietnam.

After a restful afternoon we decided it was time to leave the tree house for dinner. Dzuy recommends a place “3km’s away”. Sure Dzuy, we believe you. It was a dark walk up a jungle road, eerie. It felt time to blast Fortune Son as we trekked to dinner. We landed at a lovely restaurant and were served by a waitress in traditional Mong attire. One of the 53 ethnicities in Vietnam.

Breakfast and coffee in our belly we are ready to set off for our big adventure. A 10km hike through the jungle, rice field, and local villages to a waterfall. We were totally prepared for this 3.5 hour hike with a 10 and 7 year old child. Snacks, nope. Hiking shoes, slip slaps it is! Hats for sun protection – who needs ’em! Let’s go.

Our guide arrives and off we go. Across a hill side overlooking the sunrise covered rice fields, through an acacia forest, down into a local village and over a makeshift bamboo bridge for safe river passage. Jaysus, we were in hour in and our jaws were at the floor. It was a beauty I cannot describe. Add in the shooting high rock formations and Amanda and I agreed, we haven’t seen anything like this before.

A third of the way through we rested at a weaving village. Local grandmothers were making vibrant scarfs in front of us! As we trekked on the reality of hiking what would be 7 miles with children was settling in. But on we went, no turning back now! Miles more of beauty onward we stopped one last time at a small shop in a local village for apples. The store owner, a middle aged woman jumped to meet us. Tall healthy westerners are rare in this part of Vietnam. She was so interested that she grabbed and touched every part of every one if us in the most loving way. Then she called her 82 year old mother out. Grandma was most interested in Jack. Asian culture reveres boys, Jack has gotten used to being fondled by every Grandma we come across. 2 hours after leaving that sweet family we arrived at the waterfall and boy did that cold water feel excellent! Days later driving to the airport Amanda and I would place the hike as our favorite part of the trip, so beautiful!

Lounging at our Tree House village we met a large group of family, friends, and business partners. I love travel, open up to the world and it opens back up to you! The patriarch was a famous Chef with three restaurants in Hoi An, where we were going the next day! Chef Duc had escaped Vietnam decades before, was adopted by Americans, traveled throughout the world cooking all along the way. He stepped right into the local kitchen and served us up an amazing family meal. Between him and his lovely family we were full; and loaded with places to eat and shop in Hoi An. What an experience!

6 hours of driving to the Hanoi airport. Ugh, same crappy driver. Nerves on edge we made it. Checking in to our one hour flight to Da Nang (1 hour north of Hoi An) of course there was another paperwork error. It’s ok, nothing more money couldn’t solve. Vietnam.

Hoi An is an ancient fishing and trading town nestled along the coast. It’s old quarters are covered with one-story buildings all painted in yellow. Famous for it’s tailors, leather shops, food, and the full moon festival. Our whole trip was scheduled around Hoi An’s full moon fesitval. Stepping into town you forget the 11 hours you’d been traveling that day. It was so charming and alive. The streets of the old quarter were shut down to cars so for once you experienced a peaceful walk through town. Hoi An felt like Charleston, South Carolina in some parts and a peaceful New Orleans in others wrapped in colorful Sayulita, Mexico. Upon reaching the river which divides the city you see hundreds of boats taking people onto the water. Each passenger holds a small paper basket with a candle inside. Light the candle, make a wish and release it onto the river. It was a beautiful site.

After a lovely dinner at Chef Duc’s Mango Mango restaurant we hit the night markets. Bustling stands with local food, lanterns, clothing a mile long. What a night cap, but off to bed it had been a long day.

The shopping began the next day. We went to a local tailor so Amanda could get a fancy dinner dress custom made and I a suit. The service so fast and the cost so incredibly reasonable we ended up with a dress, two blouses, a women’s sport coat, a suit, a tux, a dress for Lyla, a shirt for Jack all for $800! We spent the next 48 hours running back and forth to the tailors for final fittings, tweaks, and try-ons until everything was perfect. What an experience! We were so grateful for the hard work and fun Ca Li Tailor provided us. To top it off, the business owner’s name (English name that is) was Amanda!

It was so hot in Hoi An! We spent the next day shopping (more), walking the beautiful streets and eating local food. Banh Mi sandwiches YES PLEASE! In this kind of heat a midday refresh is in order. The kids relax in the AC hotel room and mom and dad have a Sauvignon Blanc and tell stories, planning our next move.

This evening was the full moon festival which occurs on the 14th day of the lunar cycle every month. The riverside bustles with people awaiting their boats for an opportunity to make a wish by placing their candle into the river. So pretty, so special. We felt very connected as a family!

On the last day we continued our fittings….oh yeah, shoes as well, because who can pass on new leather dress shoes and sandals custom made at 75% of off from your local store.

Finally, we could not walk anymore so we rented bicycles from our hotel. Through a few narrow alleyways we went until we entered a valley of beautiful rice fields connecting Hoi An with an ancient village of vegetable farmers, Tra Que. Before entering we saw a silly set of local farmers posing on a water buffalo. Tourist trap accepted! Jack was the first to hop on the great buffalo (remember the Asian reverence for little boys?). Then the whole family partook. What a riot! God Bless those farmers, they charged us an ungodly amount…..but you cannot replace those pictures and those laughs!

Hoi An has a famous dish of white rose dumplings. Hundreds of years ago one family created the recipe and they still supply every white rose dumpling to the local restaurants to this day! We had to try their restaurant, it did not disappoint. We closed our last night with a performance reminiscent of Cirque du Soleil. The story represented the ancient highland tribes of Vietnam. Flying high above the sky affixed to 30 foot long bamboo polls they went. What magnificent talent! Minus a 5 minute period in the middle where it turned a bit risqué it was a fabulous family show! Hoi An, thank you.

Back to the airport where 36 hours in Hanoi would round out our trip. We checked into the beautiful La Siesta Ma May in Hanoi and were overwhelmed by the graciousness of the staff. We toured the night markets on our first night and popped into a very local Pho restaurants for dinner. Wowzers, it was delicious! There wasn’t an ounce of broth remaining between the four of us. The Pho was encapsulated with a lovely cinnamon flavor the disallowed you to put your chop sticks down!

Our last day of the trip started with a walk to the famous train street. It’s a street, where you sit one foot from a train track sipping coffee while the train goes by! Half amazing, half terrifying we drank our egg coffee and watched the silver bullet fly by! Old Quarter Hanoi was constructed around the 36 guilds that sprung up in the ancient capital around the 13th century. Each street had a theme; street of sugar, street of herbal medicine, street of silver, bamboo, combs…..you get the point. We mapped out our street plan and traversed the busy city. Uhm, no silver on silver street? Ok, no fabric on fabric street, hhm. A handful of streets in we realized the modern world took over. Perhaps there were resemblances of the ancient guilds…..but mostly it was just day to day shops.

That afternoon we hopped in a few rickshaws and cycled through the French Quarter. What a different city! The remains of the French Colonial period were obvious. Wide streets, 18th century Parisian buildings, what a beautiful jaunt. Amanda had the excellent idea of ditching the street food for a nice dinner on the last night. Madam Hien’s restaurant did not disappoint. More scrumptious Beef Pho, palm leaf baked fish, flavors flavors flavors oh boy! It was time for bed, what a trip.

I would do Vietnam an injustice if I did not recognize the warmth of the Vietnamese people. Every stop of the way we felt it. After our Halong Bay boat snafu a team member rushed to find fishing polls for the kids to squid fish. He knew it wasn’t squid season and nothing would happen, but he sensed how much the kids would enjoy it. Chef Duc, his family and friends did not just provide us recommendations in Hoi An. They welcomed us to their family dinner and shared time with our family. When we arrived at their restaurant he had a table already reserved and comped the wine and drinks for the children. Days later he was still checking on us to make sure we maximized our trip. Amanda left her airpods in the car from Pu Long to Hanoi. We contacted Dzuy and he arranged for them to be dropped off at his friends coffee shop in Hanoi. Zoom, the owner of Pu Luong Tree House tried to meet us for coffee in one of the towns so our children could meet. The list goes on and on. These new friends did not do this to make a buck or for a review; they were that kind of people. Warm and welcoming. Sites, sounds, attractions draw you to a place. Years later when you look back it was the people you remember and the way they made you feel. Thank you.

All four of us boarded the plane more connected, excited about the journey we had been on, and thankful for the friends and connections we made.

Cam On Vietnam.