Indo, Let's Go

Ratu Pedanda

Lindsey’s biggest request for the trip to Bali was some form of Balinese healing.  We performed our spiritual warm up at a water purification ceremony with the entire family.  Next, it was time to meet the Ratu Pedanda.

Our villa manager, Wayan, is the head of his local Banjar (village administrative district).  He lives in a quant village on the outskirts of the tourist zone of Canggu called Kaba Kaba.  Large trees extend above his backyard.  Rice fields blanket the entire horizon of his front yard.  Looking west you’re presented with colossal mountain views.  It is a quant and beautiful village.  As head of the Banjar, Wayan knows everyone and everyone knows Wayan.  

I asked Wayan if he knew where we could experience an intimate cleansing ceremony.  Of course he did!  Wayan arranged a private session with his Ratu Pedanda.  Ratu Pedanda is the title for a high priest in Bali and falls into the highest level in the caste system, Brahmana.  

Shortly before our 8am session we arrived in Kaba Kaba to meet with Wayan.  He assisted Lindsey and I in preparing for the ceremony.  Ensuring our Balinese ceremony clothing was properly adorn and our payment was appropriately placed into the offering was a full time job.  Honestly, we were kinda nervous.  The villagers in Kaba Kaba primarily speak Balinese, which I know about 3 words, and looked curiously upon these two Westerners dressed in ceremony clothing sitting on a wall outside a local temple.  Did they think we were ridiculous?  Were they grateful we were sharing in their ways?  Wayan assured us they were happy we were embracing their cultural norms.  He’s an honest man, I believe him.

We entered the Pura (temple) and approached the Ratu Pedanda.  He sat cross legged and upright, perched about 4 feet in the air.  He was ringing bells and chanting.  Surrounded by holy water, chimes, incense, pillows and more.  It was a simple temple.  Outdoors, rock floor leading to the shrine where daily offerings are placed.  The primary color is black due to the lava rock used for building materials throughout the island.  Noticing our arrival he spoke briefly in Balinese to Wayan.  Wayan ushered us back out to the street.  It was not time, he was still meditating in preparation for our service.  

After an hour of walking the rice fields, learning about the local village, seeing Wayan’s Father Mede as he observed his rice field, listening to roosters and sitting (lot of sitting in Bali) we were summoned back into the temple.  

Met by the Ratu Pedanda’s wife and assistant the ceremony commenced.  First we were cleansed.  Holy water was placed in our hands to drink; 3 times.  A flower was was brushed over our palms; 3 times.  Some ash or dirt substance next; 3 times.  More water to drink, more water to brush over our heads, more water to brush over our face.  Water to rinse and spit.  All of this is done 3 times.  All of this set to the ringing bells and ancient chants of the Ratu Pedanda.

Triplets is common in Balinese ceremonies, and probably greater Hinduism.  It is meant for the mind, body, spirit.  Or I’ve been told the 3 primary God’s of Hindu.  It’s often represented in sarongs and braceletes with the colors red, white, and black.  

After our initial cleansing we were taken back outside the temple via a side exit.  A similar set of cleansing rituals were performed.  Now 11 times.  Later that afternoon I asked Wayan why 11 times and not 3; he simply shrugged.  After completing our ritual cleanse water was poured over our head.  I was first.  Lindsey was asked to help wash the water all over my body, head to toe.  She was a participant in cleansing my mind, body and soul.  Next she was up and I assisted.  Now wet, rice was presented to us and we placed it on our forehead, head, neck, chest, in our mouths.  Back inside we went.

The set of cleansing rituals was again performed, again in 3’s.

Upon completion we were asked to sit in front of the temple.  Offerings were placed in front of us.  Various flowers, rice and biscuits inside a banana leaf tray.  The Ratu Pedanda spoke to Wayan who then guided us through the next steps.  Sitting upright you place a flower in between your finger while bringing your thumb to your forehead, hands together in the prayer position.  Ratu Pedanda would chant, we would pray.  Across five separate prayer session we prayed for what were were thankful for, what we hoped for in the session, each other, our bodies our mind and others.  It was often hard to follow, we’re outsiders, but beautiful. 

I’m not an expert on faith or world religions.  Those are personal journeys.  I have always believed the more people you have pulling for you, the more prayers and support sending you positive light, the more you embrace it and share the positive sentiment, the better off you are.  

As siblings Lindsey and I have been through a lot.  Divorce at the ages of 5 and 3, we’ve lost family way to soon.  Our mother, brother and step father, should still be with us.  You can move forward from that trauma but you don’t ever move away from it.  We also have our own issues, as does everyone.  Relationship challenges, parenting challenges, anxieties, fears.  In the presence of Ratu Pedanda you strive to focus on your gratitude.  You open up to his blessings and are thankful for another tool to help you move forward as a more grounded and better person.  We may not have understood the entire ceremony but I am confident we both felt it.  I’m so thankful to have shared that with Lindsey.  

As we leave the Ratu Pedanda asks (via Wayan) if he can take a picture with us.  Phew, Lindsey and I have been wondering if that was acceptable!  He blesses us multiple times more and upon completion asks us the most common question in Bali.  “Where you from?”  After hearing our response of America he raised his fist and says with a smile; “Donald Trump.”